Check out Grant Stockly's Chit
for some positive comments. Look for the thread titled "So
Goto my Apple II Forum
if you have something to share with other replica kit builders.
picked the kit up on Friday - looks great! ... A thought
struck me as I was admiring your work - have you considered replicating
the Apple I ?" - Frank
"Thanks again for your time, this has been a great project. " - Brian
"Thanks again. I am pleased with the kit. If I wasn't worried about the economy I'd buy another one." - Mike
It arrived today. I
must say, it's a beautiful PCB.
professional looking. I think the hardest part will be
the decals on. I was never very good at that. Would
better to do the decals first or last?
Glad everything arrived in good
order. I put the decals on last, on my prototype, as I was
worried that the heat of soldering might melt them. The key
decals is to apply the setting solution very lightly with a small
brush, just so it settles down onto the surface it is being applied
to. It must be properly positioned before
the decal setting solution, as the solution will melt it onto the
surface. Apply too much, and the decal will melt too much and
lose it's shape. Don't touch the decal once the setting
is applied, until it is dry.
I've bought all my supplies, and soldered all the sockets and bypass
caps on. So far, so good. Enough of
thing you might mention in the guide concerns the decal setting
solution. I didn't know it came in the same bottle as the
model paint. In my search, I looked right passed it even
it was in the same display as the paint at the hobby store.
people who worked at the store didn't know what it was,
You might want to mention some details as what to look for in the guide
for us decal clueless.
That was the only minor hiccup in a completely flawless
I'm now trying to figure out how to display it so the motherboard is
visible. I need a transparent case lid :-)
the tip on the
decal solvent, sounds like you are making rapid
I'll bet you could could fabricate a clear cover from an acrylic
sheet. Now that you mentioned it, I kind of like the idea,
may investigate further.
done. Stuffing those sockets was a
Any better sockets available? These have an annoying lip
each hole that requires exact positions for every pin.
So the problem is I have no clock. On close inspection of
board, I notice my 2n3906's are oriented differently than
I followed the silkscreen orientation. Should I rotate them
around to match yours?
the 2n3906's used for clock generation, use the orientation that I used
(cover of the manual). The silkscreen on the original rev0 is wrong,
and that is what I duplicated on my replica silkscreen. Sorry about
that, I made the same mistake and should have remembered to mention
that in the bringup guide.
strongly feel that these
sockets are a significant upgrade over the type Apple used.
that they cost about 3 to 4 times as much as the kind that Apple used
and that the contact area is gold plated. Back in the late 70s and 80's
I worked for a mini-computer company and we used similar milled sockets
on that high-end equipment and I can't recall hearing about any
problems with sockets, back then. If you listen closely to
Apple at 30 audio recordings at www.digibarn.com, the Apple folks
mention that even back then, that they had trouble with the sockets
that they used.
didn't have any
particular difficulty with the sockets, I do see what you mean by the
ridge on the sockets, by comparing with some others that I
on hand. I guess my next lot of sockets will cost
more than that first lot. Darn things cost nearly as much as
IC's that we stick in them!
(note: current kits have a different brand of machined sockets without the troublesome lip)
indeed, it was the orientation of the 2n3906's. I matched
and I had video. Quick press of reset and at the Applesoft
prompt. Now for the hard part - decals.
One last question I
have is the character generator
the characters match the Rev 0? I noticed some discrepancy
between my other Apples. Not really an issue, just
Can I use the character ROM from a later rev ?
Thanks again for a great project. I'm sure there will be a
few more interested when they hear about our results.
may want to swap the
character rom with one from a slightly later rev board, though I only
noticed two differences - the up arrow and the colon
The markings will read R0-3-2513, CGR-001. Unfortunately, the
ones that I bought, were not fully described by the seller.
surplus suppliers have rather high minimum purchase requirements, that
would have totally blown my budget. I still may get a lot
of the correct character ROM at a later time, should this project
generate enough interest. (note: current kits come with correct character generator)
Dave's motherboard in a case and up and running his program "Escape
from the home brew computer club"
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