A Heathkit IO-14 Oscilloscope Project

Page Created June, 2026
Nat Wadsworth's Lab

Nat Wadsworth's SCELBI Development Lab Desk: 1973 or 1974
Heathkit IO-14 (left) and Prototype SCELBI 8H (right)


Background

My interest with the Heathkit IO-14 was kindled a number of years ago when I was busy building a series of reproduction SCELBI computers.  A friend of mine who was an incredible researcher obtained some images of SCELBI developer, Nat Wadsworth's lab.   One of these pictures shows a desk with a Heathkit IO-14 next to what appears to be the first prototype SCELBI 8H.  The SCELBI system included a interface card that would display 5 lines of 20 alphanumeric characters on an Oscilloscope.  Based on the evidence of this picture, my friend and I assumed that this interface card was developed using the IO-14 as the output device.  At the time, I was preoccupied by my work on the core SCELBI system components.  I thought it would be neat to be able to eventually demonstrate my reproduction SCELBI using the original Heathkit Oscilloscope for output.  During the course of the SCELBI project, I obtained 3 Heathkit IO-14 scopes.  These old scopes were in pretty shabby state and I decided that I would restore the best one and use the others for parts.  By the time the SCELBI project was over, I had only found time to disassemble one of them, and never went through it and rebuilt it.  I'm now at the point where I need to do something with them and figure I'll get at least one working, and move the others on to another owner.  This webpage will be used by me to document the rebuild and repair of the IO-14 I took apart.




Document cover

Documentation

Fortunately one of the three IO-14s that I obtained, came with an assembly manual.  The manual is very comprehensive and in a large 8" x 10" format.  Many of the pages fold out into double, triple or even quad normal size.  It contains assembly, calibration, test and troubleshooting instructions in 147 extensively illustrated pages.  Though I will likely find problems with it as I rebuild my scope, at first glance this document appears to be an ideal model for how user documentation should be written.  It's a shame modern products aren't documented like this.

The binding on my manual had failed.  Despite a number of loose sections it was complete and the pages were in good shape.  Tucked into the back of the manual, I  found a separate 19 1/2" x 32" page with the schematics.  My first problem on this project was deciding what to do with the manual.  I figured that using it with the failed binding would probably result in further deterioration.  I searched the internet and could not find a digitized version of it leaving me the option of using it as is, repairing it or scanning it.  One of the first youtube videos I found when researching the repair of a perfect bound binding indicated that the best approach was to pull it completely apart before re-gluing it.  The binding repair process looked fairly straightforward and I already had all the needed materials to do it.  Since I couldn't find a digitized version online, I decided I would pull the manual the rest of the way apart, scan it and create a PDF before attempting to rebind it.  Given the failed state of the binding , pulling it apart was remarkably easy.  There were some complications with the large number of fold out pages in the manual, but I was able to scan and format the entire 147 pages into a pdf document.  This took about 1 and 1/2 days to do.  The results can be downloaded from here.
The next step is to bind the manual.  Following the instructions in the aforementioned youtube video, I glued the spine.  One change from the instructions in the youtube video is that I used Titebond Original glue rather than Elmers.  I think that evening  the pages for the gluing process was possibly harder than normal for a couple of reasons.  All the foldout pages added mass to some of the pages.  Also the pages were worn and spine side of the pages did have some glue residue, even though I tried to remove as much as possible.  After gluing and letting it dry for a couple of days, i checked the result and the pages did seem pretty well connected to each other.

After that, the front and back covers were glued to the body of the book using wheat paste glue, exactly as shown the youtube tutorial.  Note that my cover was in two pieces, so the front an back were glued to the Japanese paper separately.  After competing the rebinding, I did find one loose page that somehow missed getting glue.  Overall, knowing that this was my very first attempt at book binding, I'm pleased with the result and would definitely consider repeating the process in the future if I encountered another perfect bound book that was important to me that needed a new binding.  Even with the loose page, the manual is in far better shape than when I received it.

inside cover
Inside Front Cover

Typical spread
Typical Spread

typical spread

Spread With Single Fold Out Page (spreads have from zero to three pages that fold out)
 
I'm not sure how robust the new binding is and since the manual would be hard to replace,  I'll likely mostly rely on the PDF I created during the rebuilding process.


ESR Test Adapter
99 Cent ESR Test Environment

ESR Concerns

Certain types of capacitors, particularly electrolytic types, have a tendency to degrade over time.  With my Heathkit Oscilloscopes being over 50 years old, I'm concerned about the health of the capacitors.    Some people take the approach that if it has an old electrolytic capacitor in it, it should be replaced.  I've only experienced a couple of failures over the years, so normally I take the approach that if it isn't broke, don't mess with it.  In gear as old as these Heathkit scopes, running such high voltages, I figure that I should at least test the capacitors before power on.

Capacitor failure can take several forms.  Shorts can easily be checked with any multi-meter by checking for resistance between the leads.

Capacity can be checked with an LCR meter or a multimeter with a capacitance mode.   My Extech EX330 meter covers a range from .001nF to 200uF which will have to do. 

ESR stands for equivalent series resistance.  It is essentially the measure of resistance to charging or discharging.  Years ago, I built and experimented with a "99 cent ESR test adapter."  I really didn't get a complete handle on using the thing and as I approached this new project, I thought I either needed to get a better handle on using that test adapter or buy a dedicated ESR or LCD meter.   Before spending the money on a commercial unit, I decided to pull out that adapter that I had built.  Using it was kind of a pain because I had to hook power, inputs, and scope output directly to the board.  Before fooling around with it, I decided to 3D print an enclosure and put together special cables to make hooking it up easier.   So now the device has the following connections using RCA connectors.
While I was at it, I added a switch as described in the original document to lower parallel resistance from 10 ohms to 2 ohms in order to test higher value capacitors.

ESR Test Adaptor
Original ESR Test Adaptor Board in New 3D Printed Enclosure

Once I built the chassis and installed the board and custom cables, I proceeded to see if I could make sense of this device.  This device works by generating a small amplitude (~200 mV or ~35 mV) 100 kilohertz square wave that is transmitted across a low resistance  (10 ohms or 2 ohms) to ground.  The capacitor to be tested is added in parallel with the resistors.  The peak to peak amplitude of the reduced square wave is then compared against the square wave prior to adding the capacitor.  The result is computed to be a percentage of the original wave.  A bad capacitor with high ESR will affect the signal very little while a capacitor with low ESR will greatly attenuate the signal when inserted in the circuit.

For example, the ESR tester is set up in 10 ohm mode.  Without a capacitor in the circuit the signal has a 200mV amplitude.
esr signal before

Once the capacitor is added to the circuit, the result is a 24mV peak to peak signal.
esr test result

The percentage is 24/200 or 12%.  The ESR can then be determined by consulting the following table, which is taken from the ESR Test Adapter web page.  This capacitor in this example would have an ESR of around 1 to 2 ohms.

ESR V/Vo V/Vo
(Ohm) (R6=2 Ohm) (R6=10 Ohm)
0.1 5% 1%
0.2 9% 2%
0.3 13% 3%
0.4 17% 4%
0.5 20% 5%
0.6 23% 6%
0.7 26% 7%
0.8 29% 7%
0.9 31% 8%
1 33% 9%
2 50% 17%
3 60% 23%
4 67% 29%
5 71% 33%
6 75% 38%
7 78% 41%
8 80% 44%
9 82% 47%
10 83% 50%
20 91% 67%
30 94% 75%
40 95% 80%
50 96% 83%
60 97% 86%
70 97% 88%
80 98% 89%
90 98% 90%
100 98% 91%

There is an expected ESR look up chart on the Digikey website that shows that a typical electrolyic 47uF, 16 volt capacitor has an expected ESR of about 4.5 ohms.  This capacitor should be considered good.

This is all pretty easy to understand, but there are limitations.  Every capacitor has a characteristic called capacitive reactance. Reactance is an opposition to change in the capacitor when presented with a sine wave.  This varies inversely with capacitance of a device and the frequency of the applied signal.  At a fixed 100 kilohertz frequency, as the capacitance drops to around 1uF,  the capacitive reactance of the capacitor will increase to the point where it becomes a large part of total resistance.  This makes readings for this size device questionable.  With this method ESR testing of a capacitor with lower capacitance is not feasible at all.

As shown on the ESR Test Adapter webpage, large capacitors will exhibit a signal that isn't perfectly formed, but  I think they still give  a good enough idea of the behavior of a capacitor to be useful.

As that web page shows, a shorted capacitor will show an ideal ESR, but the signal isn't integrated properly, so this result should be obvious.

Overall, I think this ESR test adapter will be useful enough to obviate the need to buy a commercial ESR tester. 

Enough mucking around with preparations, I think it's time to move on with actually working on this project.
 

The Basket Case

It's a Basket Case

Looking at the current mess, I'm not sure that I did this system any good by disassembling it.  Where do I start?  I guess what I'll do is to follow the steps outlined in the manual.  For steps that are already complete, I'll check the existing work before proceeding.  If I'm able, I'll also check the functionality of any electronics components.
Parts Unit?
I also have a couple of parts units(?) stashed in the corner of my basement.


If you have any suggestions, send me an email.




Back to Mike's Hobby Home Page