Keyswitches – though I have a batch of NOS (new-old stock) Datanetics key switches with straight stems, the original Datanetics had slanted stems. I decided that using straight stems on such an otherwise faithful reproduction would not be proper, so I’m doing a transplant from an older II plus keyboard that has the correct slanted stems. The NOS straight stems will go into the II plus keyboard. That II plus keyboard has seem better days, but is a fairly early one, so deserves to be restored. I’m waiting to attach the brackets and siffener to the Datanetics, before soldering the keyswitches into the Datanetics keyboard. There are more switches on the Datanetics than on an Apple II plus, but I have a few extra switches from a previous project that can be used to make up the difference.

Brackets/stiffeners – I have bought a new 1/16″ drill bit in which to drill the rivet holes in these parts. I have rivets on order and will wait for the rivets to arrive before drilling. That way I can drill the first one or two holes, attach those rivets and be sure that registration of the rest of the holes will be good. I think Keystone #26 and #27 eyelets should do the job. This place has what looks like #26 eyelets, plus an eyelet setting tool. Mouser has both #26 and #27 eyelets.

http://volcanoarts.com/cart/eyelets/index.htm#1/16Tool

I’ll have to figure out final keycap solution at some point. For now I’ll manage with an Apple II plus set. Several folks are talking about getting a custom set made – so there may a group buy in the future.

There are two possible routes to go in regards to the connector. One solution is a PCB style board edge connector mounted onto a small PCB that will accept a 16 pin DIP header. The other is wiring the ribbon cable from the Apple -1 directly to a board edge connector. The row spacing is .156 and it has 15 positions/30 contacts. It seems like both Digikey and Mouser have stock of both PCB mount connectors and the ones with eyelets for direct wiring.

I drilled out the vias in the matrix on my PCB yesterday with a #67 bit and a pin vise. My bit wasn’t particularly sharp, but it worked out fine. I could have used a drill press, but using the pin vice ensured that I would go slow and helped avoid any mistake. I used an ohm meter to verify that the connections were broken and only had to go over a couple of holes a second time, to break the circuit. When doing this, you have to be careful that you only drill out the vias in the matrix area. There are some nearby vias that need to be left intact.

I also used a pin vise and a 1/16″ bit to ream out the slightly undersize mounting holes for the keyswitches. These are still a tight fit, so some more reaming may be necessary when I finally mount the keyswitches.