I made this with a tape recorder this morning.

I will not be able to verify that it’s working 100% until I get the cassette read card built, but it sounds a lot like the sound of an original SCELBI tape that Mark Arnold sent me a little while back.

The format is substantially different than the format WOZ used later on for his Apple computers. The SCELBI actually uses the ones and zeros to switch output between two frequencies, instead of directly generating the waveform in software. This is very similar to how RTTY AFSK (audio frequency shift keying) is done. Though I don’t have the audio format entirely figured out, it appears substantially more complex than the Apple format, with each nibble being sent as a sort of independant packet.

Reproduction SCELBI Cassette Write Card

Here’s a link to an original write card for comparisions sake.

Except for the relay, I soldered chips directly on the board. Departing from what I did with my SCELBI RAM boards, where I used NOS solder tail sockets, I used a machine pin socket for the relay. No serious issues were found during the build. I powered up and found it draws about .25 AMPs, so I put in a .5 amp fuse. The BOM I published in a previous blog entry was missing a 74121, but I had one of those on hand. I used a 2n3904 transistor to drive the relay and the schematic is missing the value for a 1K resistor. There is a place for a capacitor on the output, but none exists in the images of actual boards that I have seen, so I left it out.

I just noticed I forgot to put in the jumper next to chip Z6.

Outside of some articles in Micro-8 newsletter and some mention in other documents, we don’t have any original documentation for SCELBI peripherals. Once I get everything working, I’m going to have to create some docs for these cards.

After adding the jumper, I’ll build a cable between an edge connector and an 86CP11 connector, so I can plug it in to my 8B and see what happens. I will eventually put it and the read card in an a small aluminum enclosure like the originals had.

I had a couple of issues. A poorly seated DBB card. This was followed by trouble using the extender card that Cameron Cooper and I had made a while back.

SCELBI card extender

When the extender was added to troubleshoot the DBB card, it introduced noise on the strobe lines, which resulted in issues with my TTY interface. Removing the extender card, and properly seating the DBB card resolved all issues.

Next up: another attempt at printing the front panels and construction can start on the cassette interface cards.

SCELBI 8B Wiring Complete

I decided to wire the data output bus to the end connector rather than split between the middle two connectors as specified in the SCELBI build manual. I choose to do this primarily because of the cleaner wiring that is possible. The way the data bus is connected to all the memory cards, all the I/O ports and then to connected peripherals through long cables, leaves lots of room for transmission line issues. This concern, is probably why SCELBI recommended connecting four bits to each of the two center connectors. I’m no expert on transmission line theory, so I’m not sure whether the end connection will cause any issues that will require redoing this particular wiring. My guess is that given all the other wiring and relatively low data rate, is that it will have no measurable affect, which is why I’m trying it. The other thing about it, is the idea that I picked up somewhere along the way that branching transmission lines is generally a bad idea. I suppose I’ll have to compare my 8H which was done the SCELBI way with the 8B and see which looks cleaner, electrically.

The other thing I’ve done, is to connect the CPU SYNC clock to pin 10 of input port 3 and pin 10 of output port 3. These are the two red wires, one down the middle of the backplane, and the other from input port 3 to output port 3. Based on my examination of the SCELBI cassette schematics and drivers, it looks like this will be needed to provide timing for the cassette interface.

The last two items before moving onto the cassette interface is checking out the system, now that the I/O is wired and then, finally, screen printing the front panel. I did try screen printing a panel a week or so ago, but had issues with my screen not being stretched tight enough and I’ll have to make another one.

I’ve had a couple more wiring sessions and only have something like 32 wires to go. I’m doing things a little differently than on the 8H and figured I’d share a few tips.

SCELBI Wiring in Progress

First of all, I’m not following the order listed in the SCELBI hardware manual. Here is the progression I’m going through, and why it helps.

There are 80 wires to the eight output ports on a SCELBI, and 54 wires to the six input ports. All wires must be cut to length, stripped and soldered by hand. This wiring is, by far, the most tedious and time consuming single task involved in building a reproduction SCELBI. When I wired the I/O ports on my SCELBI 8H, I did it in one marathon session that took almost an entire day. For my 8B, I’m not in so much of a hurry and so far, have had 3 shorter sessions and have 56 of the 134 wires connected. The connected wires are all the ground wires for both input and output. I also have 6 bits out of the 8 bits of the output port bussed together, but not connected to the backplane. For connecting the output data bus, I found I could cut and strip a batch of equal length wires, then solder them between connectors.

SCELBI 8B I/O Port Wiring in Progress

The blue painters tape is there to protect the edges of the enclosure while the system is being constructed. I think another three or four sessions and I’ll finally have the wiring task done.

Each SCELBI board is protected from over voltage and over current with a fuse in series with a zener diode. For 5 volt supplies I use 1N5341 6.2 volt zener connected between the 5 volt supply and ground. For -9 volt supplies I use a 1N5349 12 volt zener connected between the -9 volt rail and ground. When the voltages are at normal values, the zeners do not conduct and remain inactive, not affecting the circuit. If the voltage exceeds 6.2 volts (on the 5 volt supply) or -12 volts (on the -9 volt supply), the zeners will start conducting, acting something like a short. This should prevent the voltage from rising any further above the switch on value of the zener, preventing damage to the circuitry. Also, if there is enough current, the fuse in series with the zener should blow, removing power altogether and saving the circuitry.

The main concern with this sort of circuit is that the zener cannot conduct infinite current for an infinite amount of time, before the zener itself acts like a fuse and blows. Once the zener blows, there is nothing to prevent the voltage from rising and destroying other components on the card. This is one reason that the SCELBI has different fuse ratings on different cards. The sooner that the fuse blows, the less likely that the zener will fail, first.

The 1N53XX diodes that I use on my reproduction SCELBI are not the same devices that were originally used. Though the 1N53XX devices have pretty good current handling capabilities, I was never quite positive that they would outlast the fuse in the case of an overvoltage event.

Last week, I decided to do a simple test in order to convince myself that these zener diodes would do the job in the case of a problem. The test I put together was quite simple. Simply connect a lab power supply to a fuse and a 1N5341 zener in series. Then crank up the voltage and amperage on the power supply and see if the fuse or the zener failed first. If the fuse went first, I knew the solution would be fine.

I started with a 1 AMP fuse. Adjusting the voltage to something greater than 6.2 volts and turning the amperage up to 1.5 AMPs resulted in a fuse that blew right away. Then I connected a 3 AMP fuse to see how the zener would fare under extended load. I didn`t leave the power supply on for too long, but the zener seemed to survive short tests without a problem. Finally, I turned the power up to 5 AMPs to see what would happen. After a few 10 second tests neither the zener nor the 3 AMP fuse blew. Since I didn`t really want to destroy the zener, I called the test a success.

The 1 AMP or smaller fuses used in the SCELBI would certainly blow before the zeners that I am using. As long as you use the correct fast blow fuses, I am quite comfortable recommending the 1N53XX series zener diodes for over voltage protection on the SCELBI cards.