Now for the question – should I call my Apple II rev 0 reproductions Mimeo IIs, even though they came first?
Archive for the ‘Apple II’ Category
I plan on holding build your own SWYFT card workshop at VCF east in April
follow the sessions link to find information.
If you don’t know what a SWYFT card is. Check out this link.
The “Hedlock” connector on an Apple II is the fastener that holds the lid of the case to the case. It is similar to a 3M Dual Lock reclosable fastener. On the Apple II, it is attached to the enclosure and lid with double sided tape. Over time, the adhesive loses it’s effectiveness and the Hedlock connector comes loose from either the lid or the base of the computer’s enclosure.
Here is an example where the tape stayed with lid, but the fastener came loose.
I used to use contact cement to reattach the fastener to the tape, but I found over time that the contact cement is less than an ideal solution. I think I found a better solution using the tape found in auto part stores that is intended to reattach loose trim pieces. This 1/2″ wide double sided tape has an extremely strong, long lasting adhesive on both sides, so I expect this solution to be an improvement over the contact cement approach.
Before attaching this new tape, you should remove the old tape and adhesive. This is, by far, the most difficult part of this job.
In this example the old tape, which was attached to the lid, simply pealed off.
The adhesive remaining on the Hedlock fastener was another matter. The bond is very strong, and in this case I eventually resorted to using a X-acto knife with a chisel blade to remove it. I left a few nicks in the surface, but since this is covered up with the new tape, I figured it wasn’t the end of the world. In a previous case, I managed to do it by rubbing with my thumb, but I ended up with a large blister on my thumb. I was temped to try a solvent like Goo Gone, but didn’t want to risk damaging the fastener. Here is the back of the fastener with the adhesive removed.
Before reattaching the fastener, I cleaned up this area of the lid with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Next I pealed back a strip of the new tape and stuck it to the fastener and cut the tape off from the roll.
Then I took a sharp scissors and trimmed the ends of the tape to match the curve of the ends of the fastener.
The last steps are to remove protective backing from the adhesive tape and carefully press the fastener back in place.
I don’t know if it makes a difference, but I would wait a day before putting any stress on the reattached fastener.
Here is an image of my completed prototype.
The image can also be found on my website.
This has taken much longer than expected, but I’ve got a few good decal sets ready and will start taking money, with shipments beginning no later than 1/27, with the first units likely to ship on 1/20.
The build manual can be found here.
Parts list can be found here.
Cost of bare PCB is $150 plus $20 shipping. In order to make a functional board, you will need to provide components, keyboard (my PS/2 keyboard adapter works with Apple IIs), power supply (from Apple II plus), and ROMS (see my ROM page). I’ve heard from Rob at Unicorn and he might be putting together component kits (no ROMs).
If you are not into building kits, but you are a Apple II fan, keep in mind that a framed bare PCB would look great in your den.
Send an email to:email@example.com if you need more details about ordering.
One of the mailing lists that I am on, had a thread that included a link to this old video featuring talks by key members of the Apple Industrial Design team
Something caught my ear while listening to the talk. It was Jerry Manocks view of how an early design decision indirectly caused the well known reliability issues with the Apple III. This is toward the end of Jerry’s talk – about 30 minutes into the session.
Daniel Kottke has a very interesting talk about the early days of Apple, including a detailed discussion of the reliability problem with the Apple III. I sent Daniel a link to this video, because Jerry’s view provides a cause and effect scenario that isn’t part of Daniel’s talk.
In return, Daniel mentioned that he was busy preparing for a Macintosh 30th aniversary event, something that I hadn’t heard of before. Looks interesting, so if you are in the area, you might want to check it out.
At first I did have intermittent problems with the 150ns 4116DRAM that I initially tried using. After switching to slower and less expensive 200ns 4116 DRAM everything checked out OK.
Once I get the decals made, which, if I’m lucky, will occur as early as this weekend, I’ll open it up for ordering.
It’s all soldered, just need to finish cleaning soldering flux and populate and test
I think that after fixing the keyboard and cleaning it up, this turned out to be a pretty nice example.
I’m glad I have completed this SCELBI web site update, as it is something I wanted to do for a long time. Now, if I only had time to write a complete guide to building and operating the SCELBI.
Next up… I have new Apple II rev 0 PCB‘s on hand. The PCBs look good, but I need to build one up to test, before offering the PCBs for sale. I’ve also been cleaning up and repairing a craig’s list Apple II plus purchase. Tomorrow, I hope to have the IIplus done, and perhaps start on the rev 0 soldering.
Since I made dozens of tweaks and I selected a new vendor, I’ll have to build one up and test it before I can sell the rest. I hope to have them ready for sale by the end of the month.
This time I’m selling just bare PCBs, but there is a comprehensive bill of materials, including sources, already online. The majority of the components are readily available as standard items at Unicorn Electronics. Sourcing your own components will save you money and give me time to work on other things. The build manual that I have on my rev 0 web page is still relevant, and also contains a list of components. I point this out in case you want to start investigations into components, sooner, rather than later. If I recall correctly, the hardest parts to find are the Apple II ROMs, a crystal that works right, 2N4258 transistors and the 2513 character generator.
Unless something goes unexpected wrong, pricing will be $150 a board.
I sold my last rev 0 kits over three years ago. Back then, they sold very slowly and with only a tiny profit, so it will be interesting to see how long it takes to sell this fresh batch of PCBs.
Hold off contacting me about ordering, until I post on this blog that they are ready to ship.